Discover the best tourist places and foods in Durrës, Albania

Great Mosque in the center of Durrës. Photo by Pudelek, licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0

Durrës has a really nice downtown area, perfect for taking a casual walk. The main spot is Freedom Square, where you'll find important places like the Town Hall, the Theater, and the Grand Mosque. The buildings in the middle of the city have a quirky style of Albanian modern architecture that surprisingly fits well, with palm trees lining the streets, giving the whole area a pleasant vibe.

But the coolest things you'll find are the ancient Roman monuments mixed in with the regular communist-era buildings. Picture seeing the Byzantine Forum with old tall buildings in the background – it's like something out of a surreal history book. Also, don't forget to check out the Archaeological Museum, the biggest one in the country, with statues, pottery, Roman mosaics, and items from the Byzantine era.

If you're up for it, climb a hill for a view of the city and the Adriatic Sea. There, you'll find Durrës Castle – an important fortress that's played a big role in the area's history.

After your city stroll, drop by Uma Food & Drinks, just a short walk from the center – it's a trendy spot where you can enjoy delicious treats from the Adriatic Sea and some tasty Albanian dishes. The moment you step inside, you'll be drawn in by the chic loft-style decor – dark tones, golden lights, and green plants giving off a relaxed and slightly romantic vibe, like a beachside getaway.

Their menu is packed with interesting options. Start with hot appetizers like stuffed calamari with rice or grilled octopus with porcini, beautifully served on fancy plates. Then, explore dishes like risotto with shrimps or gorgonzola, and for pasta lovers, paccheri with fresh sausage is a must-try. If you're into seafood, go for oven-baked koce fish filet, paired with grilled asparagus on the side. Save room for dessert – semifreddo with pistachio is a winner, especially with a glass of local Albanian white wine like Pulsi Beratit. And don't miss out on their awesome cocktail menu and the regular themed parties with live music – guaranteed not to be boring.

Durrës Amphitheatre. Photo by Pudelek, licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0

Not too far from the city center is Albania's top attraction – the biggest among the 230 Roman amphitheaters that have survived, built back in the 2nd century AD. The Durrës Amphitheatre was used until the 4th century until an earthquake messed it up. After that, it was left alone, and a small Christian chapel with cool paintings and mosaics was put inside. The arena, where gladiator fights and other shows entertained Emperor Trajan and the crowd, is surrounded by lots of stairs with seats for about 15,000-20,000 people.

Walking through the tunnels inside the Amphitheatre will make you think of a scene from the movie "Gladiator" – where Maximus steps into the arena while the crowd goes wild. And if you find yourself in the western part of the Amphitheatre, you'll be just a few steps away from the Adriatic Sea coast. There are also info panels that tell you about the history and make the past come alive.

Just a few steps from the Amphitheatre, make sure not to miss the fantastic Pastarella restaurant with its Mediterranean dishes. Even though going up to the third floor for lunch might make you think twice, push those thoughts aside, and you'll be treated to an incredible sea view from the open terrace and big windows of this stylish spot.

They have a huge menu – we counted about 20 appetizers alone – a real treat for food lovers, especially if you're into fresh seafood. Kick off with giant prawns with a refreshing touch of ouzo, crispy crab meatballs, or Thessaloniki mussels with feta cheese and mustard. Then, go for something heartier like Karaburun sea bass or other freshly caught fish, or take broccoli escalope with figs and pears in red wine – perfect for satisfying your hunger. If you have a sweet tooth, their signature Pastarella is a must-try – a sponge cake so light you've never had anything like it before. Another favorite among regulars is fancy panna cotta with orange jam for dessert.

One of the numerous bunkers in Albania. Photo by Fingalo, licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0

Bunkers have become a kind of unofficial symbol for Albania, representing a unique piece of history from the time when the country was under communist rule. In the 1950s, the Albanian government started building them to protect against possible attacks from enemies, and more than 750,000 of these structures were constructed over the next several decades.

These bunkers came in all shapes and sizes, scattered across the country – in the mountains, along the coast, and in the villages, some were placed in really surprising spots, like on top of buildings or inside rocks. As you explore the city, you'll likely come across these mushroom-shaped structures, found in parks or right by the side of the road.

Today, most bunkers sit empty and unused. However, some have been turned into museums, cafés, and even hotels. Many of them are also located in beautiful places, like the Concrete Bunkers site on a hill in the forest near downtown, providing a fantastic view of the city and the ocean.

After checking out the bunkers, head down the hill towards the center and find Spaghetteria Luli near the Durrës Amphitheatre. Even though it might add a bit to your walk, the extra distance is totally worth it – this joint is super popular in the city, and rightfully so. Granny Luli, who runs the place, makes everything from scratch, from different kinds of pasta to homemade sauces, including pesto with fresh basil from the market. Despite the small space, you'll be greeted by amazing smells when you step inside, and once you try any dish, you'll never want to swap this family-owned Italian restaurant for another.

Granny Luli purposely keeps the menu simple to ensure top-notch quality for her signature recipes. But don't worry, there's still plenty to choose from – ravioli, tagliatelle, pappardelle, spaghetti, lasagna, cannelloni, and over 10 options, ranging from white mushrooms and cream truffle to cured pork and seafood. The servings here are big, and the most expensive dish is less than $7. Just imagine – in the middle of the city, you'll discover this gem serving up incredibly high-quality, tasty, and homemade pasta made with love, and at a very reasonable price. If you're not there yet, we honestly don't get why.

Durrës beaches. Photo by Albinfo, licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0

Take a casual walk along the promenade, a must-see spot in Durrës where you'll find people strolling around at any time of the day, no matter the weather. There are two piers nearby – one made of concrete and the other of steel – both offering a lovely view of the crystal-clear water and the embankment. Sit back at one of the cafés or restaurants, take a breather, and enjoy the surroundings.

If you're in the mood for a day by the seaside, there's no shortage of options – the entire coastal stretch of Durrës and nearby villages for 40 km in both directions is practically one expansive shoreline. Durrës' beaches hold a special place in the hearts of locals, as families used to spend their weekends there in the past. The closest ones to the city are Currila and Kallmi beaches, right next to each other – these two are well-known and beloved spots for both tourists and locals. Currila Beach is more lively and crowded, while Kallmi is a peaceful choice preferred by families for its calm atmosphere and shallow waters.

Right by the beach, nestled between Currila and Kallmi, we suggest you fill up after your swim at Charlie Max Marina – a seafood restaurant and oyster bar that's earned the love of many tourists on the Adriatic coast. Here, you'll not only enjoy a tasty meal but also soak in the lovely atmosphere with a spacious dining area featuring red and white checkered tablecloths and wide-open balcony doors leading to a huge stone terrace with a wooden canopy, offering a splendid view of the waves.

Glancing at the menu, it seems like the kitchen team has no boundaries when it comes to creativity and options. How about kicking things off with fried oysters over creamed spinach, along with octopus salad or fish croquettes that are unmatched on the coast? The pasta choices are equally tempting – check out linguine with dates & shrimps, and blueberry ravioli, or go for grilled red mullet or any other fish fresh from the morning catch. Dessert might seem like a stretch, but after a couple of dips on the beach, come back for their signature tiramisu and cappuccino, or ask for a glass of Albanian wine from the cellar.

Rodoni Castle. Photo by Pasztilla aka Attila Terbócs, licensed under CC BY-SA 4.0

Take a day trip for a unique adventure and create memories with a photo session that not many tourists in Albania get to experience. Just an hour's drive from downtown Durrës, you'll reach Cape Rodon – a piece of land shaped like a peninsula sticking out into the Adriatic Sea. Here, you'll find the stunning remains of Rodoni Castle, built in 1452 to keep out the Ottomans. Back then, it stood tall at the edge of the cape, with walls stretching 400 meters and magnificent round towers on top – totally different from the usual hilltop fortresses.

Because of the sea doing its thing over time, some of the castle walls now dip under the Adriatic waters. But don't worry, you can still check out the outside walls on the right side and explore them, especially during the sunset – perfect for getting those unforgettable photos. So, ladies, consider bringing a fancy evening dress with you – those pics are going to blow up your Instagram.

On your way to Rodoni Castle, there's this really fantastic spot that, like all the best things, you shouldn't judge by its appearance. Peshk I Fresket Deti Nori is in a big wooden house surrounded by greenery, flowers, and cool seashell decorations on the doors – a real gem in this area. It's a family business where the men are professional fishermen, heading out to the sea every day. That's why there's no menu printed here, and your waiter, one of the sons, will just invite you to check out what they've caught this time. But trust us, you'll have plenty of tasty choices.

Shrimp, calamari, and octopus, fried fish, crispy potatoes, a delightful salad with tomatoes, cucumbers, and peppers, and some bread like pita – that's what's waiting for hungry travelers. Every review about this place is full of praise, which is pretty rare in today's picky world. The secret to their success is super fresh ingredients, recipes perfected over the years, crunchy veggies, and loads of love sprinkled on each dish. It's a must-stop on your journey to the farthest corner of friendly Albania.

We hope you found this little adventure in Durrës intriguing, and that you'll consider planning a trip here next summer. Meanwhile, bookmark your favorite restaurants by creating an account on our website – it's really handy to have trusted eateries with the best local food at your fingertips.